Paxos primeguide
Laying South East of Corfu at a distance of 45 miles from Corfu town, Paxos is a world away from the more cosmopolitan atmosphere of its larger neighbor. At just 10KM by 4KM, Paxos features 21 beaches, one of these being sandy (and manmade) and the other 20 being of the pebbly variety!
Don’t be put off by this though, as Paxos has much more to offer.
The islands consist of three main settlements on which we will feature, these being Gaios in the East, Loggos (or Longos), set midway between Gaios and the most Northerly coastal village of Lakka.
What sets Paxos apart from many of the mainstream Greek destinations is its old world charm. Here, you will find traditional bakeries, old style Tavernas and olive groves. In fact, it’s like stepping back into the Greece of 30 years ago.
Getting there.
Most European visitors will arrive via Corfu. As one of Greece’s most popular destinations, flights are plentiful and due to competition between the operators, tend to be cheap, particularly early and late in the season. In fact, some very good deals can be had from UK operators such as Olympic and Sunvil so here is a good place to start if you want everything organized for you.
For independent travellers, head for the domestic port (around 20 euros in a taxi) and head for the Sette Mari Café where you will find a comfortable waiting room and coffee shop before departure. There’s a ticket office (names ‘JOY cruises’) straight across the road where you can pick up tickets for Paxos. There are a few options for your transfer to Paxos, the fastest being the Ilida, a hydrofoil which will skim you over the waves in around an hour for a cost of 20 euros. Other boats, such as the Despina with take slightly longer at around 95 minutes at a cost of E10.50.
Travelers from the mainland should make their way to the port of Igumenitsa (opposite Corfu). The Despina also has a route here at the weekend for a cost of 15 euros. Timetables and costs for both can be found at http://www.paxos-greece.com/paxos-ferry-times.htm
Check closer to the time though as changes to cost and departure time are almost inevitable. The closest hotel to the port in Corfu would be the Hotel Atlantis, which is straight across the road.
On arrival in Paxos, you will dock in the new port , passing the small islet of Panagia on your left hand side with its tiny white washed church. Gaios, with the old port, reserved for fishing boats, yachts and day excursion boats is located around the corner and out of site. The new port has a pickup area where travel agents and car hire companies will meet you and direct you to your accommodation.
Exiting the port, a left will take you over the hill (with excellent views over Gaios from the balcony at the top of the hill) and a right turn will take you to the villages of Loggos and onto Lakka.
Gaios
A short walk around the harbor road will bring you into the main town of Gaios, which stretches back from the harbor front and out from the central square. On the left of the square, you will find Paxos travel who will be able to assist with any accommodation enquiries and excursion needs, Take some time to explore the back streets which feature a wide variety of gift and craft shops, eateries and supermarkets. The main concentration of restaurants is set around the square and along the harbor front with all budgets being catered for. Further along the harbor front, on the edge of the town you will find the ‘Green man’ a statue dedicated to lost mariners. A few meters further on, there’s a beach with a few parking spaces adjacent to it.
The main parking area for Gaios can be found towards the back of the town (chargable) or there are parking spaces to be found on the outskirts of town with just a short walk to the centre.
The town can get busy during the summer months as it’s a favorite stop off point for day tripper boats from both Corfu and Parga so dining in the square can get a little congested during lunch time. Try a morning visit for a quieter time.
Accommodation.
There are many rooming options in Gaios (try Booking.com or a similar internet site) from simple style to the more opulent villas located on the coast road heading south. GIC have some pleasant houses up in the hills above Gaios with great views over the town.
Loggos
Or Longos, to give it its local name can be four further up the coast, mid way between Gaios and Lakka. This quaint village has the main road squeezing right down between the sea and the taverna tables so quite understandably, there’s not a lot of traffic goes through the village. One of the main features of the town is the old Olive press, a sizable abandoned structure set right next to the sea where the road turns inland. (It’s currently for sale).
Along the harbor front, rental boats bob in the water across from the handful of tavernas and cocktail bars that line the road. There’s also an excellent bakery at start of the jetty together with bars where you can sit at the water’s edge away from any passing traffic. Loggos’s beach is located a couple of hundred meters over the hill next to town where you will also find a beach side taverna.
For a quiet, away from it all holiday with just enough facilities, Loggos is ideal.
Accommodation
Sunvil has some pleasant rooms set around the harbour front. (try Sophia’s for excellent views over the harbour from its enormous terrace).
Other accommodation options are available on sites such as Booking.com & Expedia, although you will have to make you're own travel arrangements with these booking sites.
Lakka
Probably the main seafront village on Paxos is located in the north of the island with views of the cliffs of southern Corfu. Lakka is a well developed village surrounded by lush olive groves set on the hills which surround it. Popular with the yachting set, flotillas make for the protection of Lakkas harbor (and probably its bars and Tavernas) In fact, it’s quite possible to never eat in the same restaurant or taverna twice during your stay as the choice is so varied. In reality though, the dining is so good here you’ll soon find your favorite, be it fish, meat or a simple Pizza, Lakka has something for all tastes.
A short walk out along the coast from the left hand side of town (look for the ice cream parlor) will bring you to a couple of pebbly beaches, the larger having a bar at the end of it.
Sun sets are to the west of town so a 30-40 minute walk up to the lighthouse will give you excellent views of the sun setting over the Ionian sea. Returning back down the hill after sun set, you’ll get back down to the village before you lose the light. In the evening, apart from the numerous dining options, Lakka has some pleasant bars to visit. The harbor lights has great views over the harbor from the first floor (no one goes up there so you might have it to yourself), Fannis at the end of the harbor is great for both evening and people watching during the day but for an unforgettable experience, go to the Theofrastos Caffenio. Located off the main sqare, the owner Babis looks after both tourists and local custom in the traditional Cafeneon. If you want to experience a traditional greek Cafeneon (but never had the nerve to go in one), give the Theofrastos a try.
Accomodation
Direct booking is available via the internet sites. There’s not too many UK operators having accommodation here, Sunvil have some rooms on the outskirts of town and Olympic have the Bastas which features simple style rooms but has an impressive pool overlooking the village. The Hotel also has direct booking on https://hotel-bastas.com.
Other Beach areas.
Guests at the Batas also have the advantage of a free ride to the neighboring beach of Monodendri. Although being rather rocky, the beach features several beach bars and the one belonging to the Bastas also features its own pool and pool bar. Sunbeds are available for patrons and there’s plenty of parking above the beach for the day visitor.
Mogonissi, in the south of the island can be found by following the coast road out of Gaios to the south of the island. It’s a man made beach with imported sand set in a sheltered bay and backed by a well established Taverna. Popular with the yachting set, moorings are available to the side of the beach.
Located close to the village of Loggos, Kipadi beach can be reach after a short walk from the dirt track where you’ll be able to park. It’s a shingle beach but sizable so some seclusion can be found.
Around the island.
I would advise taking the round the island to Anti Paxos trip. The one I took departed from Loggos and on its voyage anti clockwise around the island it took in many of the coastal features you won’t see from the land.
The Blue Caves are impressive and large enough to fit an excursion boat into and the giant rock arch of Tripitos is ranked No 3 on the list of things to see around Paxos on Trip Advisor.
The Islands smaller neighbour, Anti Paxos, is located to the South and worth a visit. Be careful early and late season though, the channel can get choppy and boats will be cancelled if the sea’s too rough. Boats will drop you ate the sandy beach of Vrika with its white sandy beach (the Flake (chocolate bar) advert was filmed her some years ago as the location looked Caribbean). You’ll have a couple of hours here so thankfully, there’s a handful of Tavernas to keep you occupied.
If travelling for a week or longer, Paxos should provide you with a unique experience, away from the main tourist trail and provide you with a glimpse of the Greece many of the more mainstream areas have lost .