Corfu, an island of two halves
Corfu, an island of two halves.
Corfu, it has been written, is an island of two halves. This is certainly true, with the North being dominated by mount Pandokrator, abundant in woodland that spills down to the beaches below. Resorts like Kassiopi and Sidari have long being popular with package holiday makers and the slopes of Nissaki are now dotted with villas, looking out onto the shores of Albania. South of Corfu town, the terrain flattens and tapers off south, passing the pleasant resorts of Perama and Aghios Geogios (there’s three of these on Corfu) and finishing just beyond the noisy but popular Kavos.
The following is a brief tour of the highlights and whether you’re planning a holiday or just taking a drive once you’re there, it should help point you to the right place for you.
Getting there
The web is awash with flight options to Corfu, flying from many airports around Europe. Its proximity to Italy means it’s easily accessible from many of the Italian ports (Brindisi being the closest) and also from Igoumenitsa on the mainland.
Interesting route-fly to Athens and drive along the Gulf of Corinth and then North via Patras. It’s a great drive and possible in around 8 hours to Igoumenitsa.
North of Corfu Town
Corfu town, as could be expected is the central hub of the island, being home to both the international airport and the main Port. There are two options on travelling around the North of the island (we shall assume you are travelling by car) either travel on the East side, past Ipsos or follow the winding coast road past Nissaki. Some of this drive is not recommended for the feint hearted though as some of the corners could be considered a little sharp.
For a first trip though, I would suggest either the more relaxing drive over mount Pandokrator which will take you to the north of the island or the following route, first to the West of the island.
From the Northern outskirts of Corfu town, or the port, head North along the coast road. As the road bends left as you enter Kontokali, you leave the coast behind (the house featured in the BBC’s Durrell’s program is located on the cost near here). Kontokali is home to a sizable marina and has its own beach together with some sizable hotels.
You have two options at the T junction; go right for the East coast road which starts its more interesting journey after the resorts of Dassia and Ipsos, or head straight ahead for Paleokastritsa. This route will take you past the turning for Sidari and Roda (you can’t miss the sign) but carry straight on and the drive will take you around 15-20 minutes.
Paleocastritsa
This is one of Corfu’s oldest resorts and is set around the six beaches which span the length of the resort. Head for Agios Spiridon bay where you’ll find the main car park on the right. Here’ you will find one of the nicest beaches complete with busy jetties where boats are available to take you to some of the more secluded bays which dot the coastline here. Set above the bay is the 18 century Monastery of Theotokas which is well worth the climb if only for the balcony view outside the monetary doors. You can drive up but be prepared for a lengthy wait at the traffic lights.
Heading back out of the village, you will pass by the other beaches but parking is at a premium here. Triada Beach is pebbly but worth a visit with a diving school right on the beach. Look out for the Akron beach bar sign, they have parking down a very narrow driveway but beach side dining . As you climb out of the village, take the sharp left and head up the hill towards Lakones and probably one of the best views on Corfu.
Lakones is, I understand home to the longest red (traffic) light in Greece, around 8 minutes at the last count. The wait is worth it though as the other side of the village is home to the ‘balcony’ which overlooks Paleokastritsa. Look out for the car park on the right, opposite the Golden Fox. Here, you can stop for a coffee and take in the outstanding views of the resort.
Agious Georgeos can be found a further 10 minutes drive north. Traders selling locally produced honey from their road side stalls can be seen in Makrades, the only town of any size you will pass through on this route also has a few road side shops selling Corfiot produce such as Retsina and Olive wood products.
Watch out also for the Angelokastro Castle, clearly visible from the road side.
Aghios Georgios
As the road winds down to Aghios Georgios, you’ll get some great photo opportunities. Aghios Georgios has 5KM of fine sand set in a horse shoe shaped bay. The resort has retained its charm with tourism being fairly low key and the beach quiet out of the high season. Wind surfing is popular here but don’t get confused, there’s three resorts bearing the same name in Corfu, this one and two more located both North and South. The spellings vary and whether they’re North, South or central will depend on who you speak to.
Arillas
Heading out of the village, pick up the signs for Arillas/Aghios Stefano and head North to the next Bay. Arillas is a quite resort with a nice stretch of sand & shingle is is arguably the best location to get the wonderful sunsets which can be seen from Corfu. It set right behind the old concrete jetty which is centrally located off the coast road and opposite the ‘T’ junction where the road ends. Here, you will find traditional Tavernas strung along the beach road. Turn left and walk as far as you can before the road turns a sharp left and the Sea Breese Taverna is perched right above the beach, with excellent view of the sea for a lunch time break.
Accommodation idea-just out to the resort centre, the Makris family run the Hotel Marvel. Ideally situated in quiet position, the hotel has a taverna serving lunch and dinner and a sizable pool to cool off in.
San Stefano
Heading North again, the coast starts to curve eastward as you enter the next resort of San Stefano (Aghios Stefano). Beach lovers will love the vast expanse of sand the resort has to offer. Sunbeds and parasols can be rented here on the 2 KM beach and due to its depth, you’ll never be short of a secluded spot. Turn left at the end of the coast access road and the small fishing harbour is located just passed the church. San Stefano’s main street has an array of supermarkets, shops and tavernas so if you wish to stay here, you’ll not be shots of dining options. There’s also a very nice bakery located here near the top of the main street for cheese pie fans.
Accomodation idea-San Stafano Travel are located right next to the beach and offer a range of apartments and villas located in the San Stefano area. Check out their web site at www.san-stafano.gr
Heading out of San Stefano, you’ll wind you’re way up the hill past the Vicky apartments. Stop of here for a coffee and a photo opportunity. The pool side terrace overlooks the beach and it’s a great place to get an overview photo.
East of San Stef, Avliotes and Peroulades are traditional Corfu villages. Kafeneons can be seen strung along the village roads and are great if you want a taste of traditional Corfu village life (and some extra strong coffee).
Peroulades, for some reason has a WW11 torpedo located in the village square. I've never been able to find out why, but it certainly makes an interesting centre piece.
As the road winds down through the Olive groves to Melitsa where you’ll enter the out-skirts of Sidari. The road splits here. Both roads lead to Sidari with the left hand one taking you to the Canal d'Amour side of the village and the other to the village centre.
Sidari
A long time favourite of package tourists from the UK, Sidari has a decent stretch of sand and a main street which will cater for most tastes during the evening hours. The resort is orientated towards the family and there’s plenty to keep the kids occupied, included the Sidari Water Park, located close to the village centre. A visit to Sidari, though, would not be complete without seeing the Canal D’Amour, located on the west side of the village. Here, the sandstone coastline has been eroded to create unique rock formations and sheltered coves, fringed by fine sandy beaches.
Here, the night life and bars are a little more slick and polished. For a more traditional Corfu beach resort, head east again until you come to Roda
Accomodation idea-Corfu Selections have a range of hotel and apartment options available on their website, both in the North and in the South of Corfu. They can also offer advice where to eat and also on car hire. For more information, see their website at http://www.corfuselections.com
Roda & Acharavi
Roda has retained its traditional village atmosphere with its beach front bars and tavernas.
Find a parking place before you get to the village centre and turn right at the bottom of the beach road where the Taxi rank and located. You can drive it but I wouldn’t advise it. Roda’s stretch of fine sand lines the beach road. Just past the entrance to Roda’s temple ruins, the road narrows down to a concentration of tavernas and bars with both fast food and traditional tavern options. The New Port Taverna is one of the largest and offeres traditional Greek Dishes with a view of the beach. Here, the beach widens before narrowing again as you head into Acharavi.
Accomodation idea-the Blue Garden are an independant hotel, located in a quiet area of Roda but within easy walking distance for the village centre. The hotels offers, traditional rooms has the benefit of a good sized pool and tavern. Elenor and Andreas, who run the hotel will be able to advise and the best place to visit in the locality. The hotel can be contacted on www.bluegardencorfu.com
Acharavi , is set behind the stretch of sand and shingle beach. The main centre of the village is set along the main road with a few dining options set amongst the hotels which line the narrow beach roads. Due to its position, both villages are ideal for getting both Sunrise and Sunset pictures.
Accomodation idea-The Roda Garden is located between Roda and Acharavi. The Hotel has a good sized pool and the location is perfect as its situated right on the beach front road, with the centre of Roda just a few minutes walk away. The hotel offers evening entertainment and is a good option for families. The hotel can be booked through Manos holidays at www.thomascook.com
St Spiridon
Just beyond Acharavi, St Spiridon has an excellent sandy beach set beside a good example of a Corfu Church. The beach is located in front of the Blue Bay hotel (available through UK tour operators) and is probably the closest you’ll get to a Caribbean style beach setting. The nature hunting scenes from The Durrells were filmed close to here, on the lagoon where flamingos can be seen. The sunsets are reputed to be some of the best in Corfu from here.
You can now head straight out of Roda (straight on at the cross roads from Roda’s beach road) and make your way back to town, over the Pandokrator to the T junction at the start of the journey. Alternatively, heading out in an easterly direction (you’re now in the most northerly part of Corfu) the Scenery now becomes increasingly greener as you start to make you’re way back along the coast road toward Corfu Town.
Kassiopi
Again, one of the first of Corfu’s villages to be developed for tourism, Kassiopi is set around a pleasant harbour, lined with fish tavenas and overlooked by the villages ruined castle. The bustling village centre offers a range of shops and supermarkets and Kassiopi’s two beaches can be found just a short walk out of the village centre.
Accomodation idea-the travel corner is one of Kassiopi’s longest established travel agencies. In addition to organising accommodation they can organise car hire, ferry tickets & flights. Contact them on www.kassiopi-travel.com
Heading south, the road becomes increasingly narrow but still offers some interesting stop-off points.
Agios Stefanos, set in its horse shoe bay, (and not to be confused with its name sake on the West side of the island) this is a quiet sea side village with a few tavernas and supermarkets. You’re getting into villa land now and this is the kind of quiet-low-key setting loved by couples wanting the quiet life. Well worth a visit though, if only for future reference.
Koloura and Kalami
Koloura and Kalami lie south of Agious Georgios. Their links with the Durrell family are well documented and because of this, these two quaint sea side villages have long been a favourite stop off point for day trippers. Despite this, they retain their charm with Koloura having a crescent shaped harbour which photographs very nicely from the main road with views to the Albanian mainland beyond. Kalami has a sand and shingle beach and is where the white house is located, one time home to Lawrence Durrell.
Agni
Next door to Kalami, Agni is accessed by taking a left off the main road, The village is signposted and you’ll also see signs for the tavernas. The village is tiny so it’s best to take advantage of one of the car parks (you may have to pay a small fee) which are located before you come to the seafront. Agni is certainly a place to come and eat and the pebble beach front is lined with tavernas. There are few sunbeds and also boats for rent. The small sea side church featured in the first episode of ‘The Durrells’ is located just around the headland, south of Agni.
Our last stop on the tour is Nissaki. This could be described a ‘Villa Central’ strung out in the hills around Nassaki lie a collection of villas of all standards which are located all the way from beach side right up the mountain as far as its possible to travel by car. The views out to Albania are outstanding and fortunately, many of these are supplied with a car as Nossaki’s beach, although not cramped could not accommodate all of the holidaymakers located in the hills above it. Beside the beach and small jetty (again, a scene from ‘The Durrells’) are a couple of tavernas and a small fishing harbour. Parking is at a premium though so be prepared to walk for a couple of hundred meters down to the beach.
Beyond Nissaki, the road takes you past Barbati beach, a well know water sports centre and beyond to Ipsos, still popular with mainstream tourists. A short drive through Dassia will take you back to the T junction where we started.
The tour should take you one to two days, depending on how long you spend in each location.
Enjoy!
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Copyright- Paul Walters 2016 no part of this transcript may be reproduced without permission
Some hotel suggestions
Margaritas Apartments, right on the beach in San Stefanos
The Hotel Marvel in Arillas
The Blue Gardens, Roda
The Melina Apartments, Roda