Alonissos
I first visited Alonissos over 20 years ago, travelling on one of the old flying dolphins which can still be seen plying the routes between Greece’s Sporadic islands. The mobile phone system was poor to nonexistent and the beaches peaceful. Twenty years later, little has changed. Cars are more plentiful and the beaches a little more populated but the island retains its back water charm, with no airport and the only access being by boat.
Getting there
Travelers visiting the island will usually come via the international airport in Skiathos, either independently or by one of the package deals offered by some of the more specialized, independent tour operators. Transport these days is more likely to be by one of the modern ferries or by the fast Cat (Catameran) which travels from Volos or Aghios Constantinos on the mainland (stopping at Skiathos and Skopelos) and arriving in Alonissos at the main port of Patitiri.
There are also numerous daytrips from both Skiathos and Skopelos
which will take you to the main port, often with the option of a visit to the Old Town of Chora, located high above Patitiri.
The East side
Alonissos sits North East of Skopelos with a approximate area of 65 sq Km, stretching from the more populated south west to the sparkly populated north east with the islet of Peristera sitting on off the easterly shore line. The area is home to a colony of the Monachus-Monachus, or the Mediterranean monk seal which is a protected species
Patitiri, and its surrounding area is the working hub of the island and where a majority of the Accommodation is located with apartments and hotels dotted around the high around which surrounds the main port. The island has a developing villas program with many to be found above the main town and further up the coast line.
Patitiri is pleasant enough, with harbor front Tavernas and a stretch of pebble beach leading straight from the town centre. More shops and bars are available on the street which leads off from the main harbor. Other points of interest include the folklore museum, located on the hill which overlooks the village from the south. The museum contains rooms with costumes, agricultural tools and a collection of works of art.
Chora
Located high above the main port is the ancient village of Chora, once the capitol of the island. The village was abandoned after the earthquake of 1965 but recently, houses have been restored and the village occupied with Tavernas and tourist shops. A visit is highly recommended, particularly after sun down when the village comes alive with street tavenas and the sound of music. During the day, the views are outstanding with some of the best sun sets being available from the road just east of the village.
Accommodation option
The Greek Islands Club have a selection of villas in the hills above Patitiri, close to the Old town of Chora.
Villas Eos and Selene are located just a 15 minute walk from the old town and have sea views on virtually all sides. The villas are newly constructed and offer outstanding views of the sun rise from the balcony’s
Villa Manolia is somewhat larger, sleeping upto 7 people and located in the forested area of Kato Chorafi, above Patitiri. The Villa has a large private pool with views of the Old town of Chroa and features a spacious living room and dining area with the benefit of an adittional dining area on the terrace.
Villa Paparouna, also located close to the old town has recently been removated with great views down to the harbor at Patitiri. The villa has an outstanding pool area with a dining area and bbq with a newly constructed separate studio located off the pool area.
Votsi
Beyond Patitiri, there are several beach which are worth a visit, the closest being Moutias beach, located on the southern tip of the Island. The rest and more notable are all located on the Eastern side of the island beyond the natural harbor of Votsi
Votsi has seen significant investment with the harbor being extensively extended on the south western side and now being home to both fishing and pleasure boats. A small beach is accessible from a staircase half way down the road to the harbor and beyond this; you can dine at one of the several fish tavernas which overlook Votsi harbor.
Alonissos saw its first car in the early 70’s and as this was used as a taxi, this revolutionized travel on the island. With the addition of a second car a short time later, things were looking good for transport on the island. Unfortunately, the two cars crashed into on another a short time later so things were back to square one! Fortunately, these days’ rental cars and bakes are plenty and this is an ideal way to see what the island has to offer. There are bussed available with visit some of the beaches but nothing beats the freedom of your own transport.
Milia
Your main point of interest is the road which leads out of Patitiri in a north Easterly direction. Beyond Votsi, the first beach of any note would be Milia. Unlike its larger namesake on Skopelos, Milia is a pleasant enough crescent of pebbly beach with a traditional taverna set midway down the beach. There’s parking at the end of the beach and due to its sheltered position, the swimming is relatively safe.
The Greek Island Club can be contacted on http://www.gicthevillacollection.com
Chrisi Milia
Located in the next bay, Chrissi Milia is home to the islands only sandy beach of any note. Popular with families, the beach has decent car parking facilities which lead straight onto the fine sand beach. The multi tiered ‘Restaurant Chrissi Milia’ sits above the beach on the southern end and is an ideal location for lunch, with magnificent views over the beach.
Kokkinokastro
A little further on, Cape Kokkinokastro is one of the islands more iconic views with the Capes red rock cliffs stretching out into the sea. It is these which gave the cape its name (Red Castle) and provides an interesting view from the beach. Kokkinokastro is on the bus route and there is parking available before the walk down to the beach.
Tzortzi Ghialos & Leftos Ghialos
Head on back up to the main road and around ten minutes drive will bring you to the junction with the turning marked Tzortzi Ghialos. This one is probably viewed from afar as the beach is thin and uninteresting. The views of the area from the hillside are worth a photograph with Kokkinokastro visible from the road to neighboring Leftos Ghialos.
Leftos is probably one of the most organized beached on the island, having two beach side tavernas offering sun beds and parasols. One even has its own pool area and all important wi fi connection where you can relax as an alternative to the beach.
Accommodation Option
The Greek Islands club has two villas here, both set behind the beach and both very different.
Villa Tassoula is a one bed roomed villa featuring a four poster bed and infinity pool. Set in the Olive groves it’s just a two minute walk from the beach.
Neptune Cottage
The Neptune features simple style accommodation in a one bed roomed cottage with a private terrace and bbq area. Theres no pool at the cottage but the sea is just a minutes walk from the front door.
The Greek Island Club can be contacted on http://www.gicthevillacollection.com
Steni Vela
Head out from Leftos and after around 10 minutes, take a right at the fork in the road. The road winds down to the picturesque village of Steni Vala. Owned mainly by one family, the village features a pleasant harbor front lined with eating options and the sizable Ghlifa beach on the other side of the village. You’re straight between the two islands here and the coastline can get quite breezy so the area is popular with wind surfers.
Kamakia
Ten minutes further on, Kamakia is a traditional Greek fishing village with waterside tavernas right on the harbor. There’s parking on the left before the sharp left hand bend and the access is through a small alleyway on the corner. Well worth a visit if only to see some is the traditional island life in action.
Accommodation Option
The Greek Island club has simple style villas available in Kamakia
Katias House is located on a hillside, set between the main road and overlooking the Harbour. Katias has its own private pool area with views over to Peristera Island
Aghios Dimitrios
The last development of any size on the coat is Aghios Dimitrios, some 10 minutes drive further up the coast. I say sizable, but the village is a lot smaller then the beach which curves right around the head land. There’s organized sun beds and parasols for rent with eating options behind the beach on the village side. The only drawback with this particular area would be the controversial bouncy castle which occupied a sizable proportion of the ocean near the village. There’s plenty of beach options to avoid the view though, so don't let this put you off.
Away from the south eastern side, there are further beach options on the north western side but most require an off road vehicle or similar.
Vrisitsa can be found by taking a right hand turn off the road to Chora. The road winds down to the north west coat and the beach featured a nicely restored windmill. The beach has car parking but little else. Megali Amos can be found further up to the coast and featured the unimpressive remains of the Amphora potteries which are little more than fragments of pottery on the edge of the beach.
The areas listed should provide some ideas for areas to visit in Alonissos whether you travelling independently or on a package.
Copyright- Paul Walters 2016 no part of this transcript may be reproduced without permission.
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